Porsche 928 Pre-Purchase Inspection
In a message date: 9/23/1999
From: “Rich”
Subject:Â 928 Pre-purchase inspection form
Thanks to the UK 928 organization for this form:
Buying Checklist
The following checklist represents in large part all the items that an informed buyer should check on any car they are considering buying. Some of these items will be less important to you than others, but knowing what needs replacing or repairing will put you in a stronger bargaining position if you are interested in the car. However, we would strongly recommend that if you have doubts about any of the mechanical aspects of a particular car,  that you walk away from the car. Contrary to what many dealers will tell  you, the 928 is not a particularly rare car, with up to 20 cars appearing  for sale all over the UK each week, so there is no reason to compromise on condition.
If you are considering buying a 928, we suggest that you drive as many 928s as you can which will give you an opportunity both to compare the different models, and to find out what a good 928 looks and drives like.  One current owner drove five in one day and it quickly became apparent that  two were good, one was so so and two were bad. The two bad ones had been  patched up and looked great from both the outside and inside, but driving soon showed their real condition. We would also be delighted if you wished  to come to one of our 928 meets during your search for your 928, which will  give you the ideal opportunity to see and talk to the owners of a wide range of 928 models in an informal setting.
In the end your choice should come down to colour and value for money, and not to condition. If you can’t afford a good S4, then start looking for an S2 rather than get a bad S4. The engineering of the 928 makes them one of the best sports tourers available, but also means that they need regular timely maintenance to keep them in good condition, both before you buy the car and after. Remember, the 928 cost +20,000 in 1978 and +72,000 in its final year of production, and all the models have servicing costs appropriate to those high prices. The Porsche 928 was from its very beginning a precision-engineered car that could more than double the UK legal speed limit at a time when many standard road cars couldn’t reach 100 mph, and that performance depends on the precise functioning of all the components. You wouldn’t expect to be able to run a Ferrari on Fiesta money – why would you therefore expect to run a 928, which is just as much of a performance car, any cheaper, simply because it’s relatively cheap to buy? That said, if you buy a good one, you should not have any surprise bills for a long time. See the Running and Servicing sections for more details on costs and maintenance schedules.
When you have found your ideal 928, then we strongly recommend that  you take the car to a 928 specialist for a pre-purchase check. If there is no 928 specialist close to where you live, then all of the official Porsche dealers and many of the independent Porsche garages offer pre-purchase inspections, which will give you a further insight into the condition of your prospective purchase. Also, ask the specialist to give you a costing of all the remedial work they find during the inspection, which will give you a good idea of some of the costs involved in restoring and maintaining your purchase in full working condition.
The checklist below is merely intended to provide you with a tool for finding and informing yourself about your target cars, and is not intended to replace a specialist mechanic’s review of the car on a ramp with the proper tools. In addition, this would be a good time to do an HPI check, which will cost around +25 to see if the car has outstanding finance on it, has been written off by an insurance company, or is reported stolen. If you buy from an enthusiast, chances are the car will have been well looked after, and you will have the comfort of a stack of service bills to know what has and has not been done to the car. When buying a car privately, it is a good idea to assess the owner. Have an informal friendly chat with the seller (or with the last owner of record if buying from a dealer), to discover what type of person they are. Also take the opportunity to meet them at their house, if possible; if the house looks well maintained, then usually they would look after their cars as well. Never buy from someone who will only meet you in a service station or a layby, or who can only be contacted on a mobile telephone number.
Specification – check during initial phone conversation
1. Auto/manual
2. Mileage
3. Body colour
4. Interior colour(s) and material
5. Does it have an MOT and service history
6. Service history – all bills or service book stamps only?
7. Number of owners and who
8. Length of current ownership
9. Reason for sale
10. Central locking
11. Air conditioning – working?
12. Electric windows – working?
13. Electric mirrors – working?
14. Type of wheels and original or replacement
15. Sunroof
16. ABS
17. Stereo
18. Any spares or extras such as service manuals
19. Price
Physical check
Remember to take a torch to look in corners and something to clean your hands on! Also, always examine a car outside and during the day in good light
1. Check MOTs/service history (1 year/12,000 mile minimum)
2. Check tax disc matches number plate and how long to run
3. VIN plate condition (if scratched or bent, walk away)
4. VIN check to ownership papers and service book
5. Check VIN year code is correct for first registration
6. Check option codes on sticker under carpet in rear hatch and make sure those same options are still on the car
7. Check for documentation on cambelt changes at least at 60k/5 years –Â don’t take the seller’s word for it, as a broken cambelt will cost you
+5,000 to rebuild the damaged engine
8. Check if water pump and all pulleys replaced at last cambelt change (if you have the bills, cambelt change only is around +250, vs. +600 for the works)
9. Check engine and transmission type and match to known model codes
10. Check mileage and compare to interior wear & tear
11. Check odometer to see if numbers line up – if not, may have been clocked. Buy on condition, and carefully check old MOTs for stated mileage which should be going up, not down!
12. All tyres condition and wear patterns – should be wearing evenly all around
13. Tyres should be same model on each axle, and V or Z rated all round
14. When was the last time tyres changed
15. Wheel condition – scratches, kerbing marks, corrosion
16. Brake pads/discs if visible – discs should have no more than a 2mm lip, otherwise need replacing
17. Examine CV joint condition – should be no leaks at all
18. Check for leaks before driving. After driving, let stand for 10Â minutes, then move car and check for new leaks
19. Panel colours should match exactly all around. If not, check why the car has been resprayed
20. Check panel fitments for even gaps all around
21. Look down the sides of the cars and check panels for bumps and ripples
22. Look for paint overspray in engine bay, on hoses and on rubber seals
23. Check all metal panels for filler (tap the panel, should be metal)
24. Check front and rear polyurethane bumpers condition and paint – if paint is crazed or badly cracked, front has been resprayed incorrectly
25. Engine bay condition – is it clean
26. Oil and water condition and levels
27. Look for little sticker on underside of bonnet to left of catch – if not present, front may have been resprayed
28. Check front chassis members for straightness
29. Press down hard on each corner and release – car should bounce up once and settle immediately, otherwise needs new dampers urgently
30. Check that one key operates both doors and hatch and the ignition, and sets alarm (if fitted)
31. Check tailgate fit, proper closing, latching, and open with remote release
32. Check spare wheel for condition, check for full toolkit, electric pump and jack
33. Check rear seats fold correctly and don’t foul rear seatbelts
34. Check condition of all seats, and check full operation of all seat electrics
35. Check condition of carpeting and remainder of interior
36. Look for cargo net and luggage cover in rear hatch
37. Lift hatch carpeting and look for specifications sticker – if not present, very likely that the car has been shunted from the rear
38. Check operation of all interior electric lights
39. Check operation of heater/air conditioning/rear defog/heated mirrors and check all heater fan speeds
40. Check wipers, screen wash and intensive wash operation
41. Check operation of headlights, sidelights, foglights, brakelights, indicators
42. Check condition of all glass areas and seals including mirrors
43. Check condition of headlining and sunroof operation
44. Check operation of stereo and speaker condition
45. Lift carpets front and rear and check for stains/undue wear/rust/other damage
Driving
1. Car should start smoothly after no more than two or three turns
2. Check for steady idle speed of around 800 – 1,000 rpm
3. Check for any vibration when running or severe body twist when starting – possible failed motor mounts
4. Accelerate in neutral and check for exhaust smoke when engine is cold
5. There should be no dashboard lights illuminated when driving normally (for digital dash, also check for error messages on startup and when driving)
6. Does the car drive and brake straight. All 928s have some tendency to follow road camber, especially the later ones, so expect some following of road contours
7. Check the brakes for snatching or judder
8. Accelerator should be smooth and light to operate – if stiff, accelerator cable may need replacing
9. Check ABS operation (on an empty road, HARD emergency stop from 15-20mph)
10. Check odometer and trip meter work
11. Check cruise control works
12. In a car park, drive the car in tight circles – there should be no noise or clonking from front or rear suspension
13. Smooth gear change operation (although manual gearboxes are usually notchy when cold and nothin to worry about)
14. In a manual, check clutch operation and biting point
15. In an auto, change between reverse and first should take no longer than a second or two with the car at a standstill
16. In an auto, check for smooth changing of gears (up and down – press down 2/3 to kick down) and kickdown switch operation (press accelerator hard to very end of travel). Gearchanges should be quick with no judder or clunking
17. Check handbrake operation
18. Check all gauges work correctly
19. Under acceleration, power should pick up smoothly throughout the rev range with no flat spots
20. Under acceleration, engine should not hesitate around 4,000 rpm (S4/GT/GTS only)
General Guidelines Buying I
In question dated: 6/1/99
My name is Ben and I own a automotive security and sound business. I collect cars as a hobby but have never owned a Porsche. I found you on the porsche registry. I am looking at purchasing a 928 that I found locally. Being new I thought that you might be able to give me some hints as to what to look for and price ranges that these cars sell for.
It looks like a good deal but I do not know. it is a 1978 928 with the  # three hundred sixty something. It does not have factory paint but is a maroonish color. The engine sounds good and runs smoothe but I can not drive the car because it needs a clutch master cylinder. He has the original interior but installed the interior out of a later model 928 he purchased wrecked for parts. He has many extra parts that go with it eg. fuel injection, heads, water pump, electric parts, ignition….
The odometer reads 54000 but he thinks that the speedometer was changed before  he got it because it goes to 160 MPH and
he did not think the factory went that high? His records show that it is due for an oil change but it has been set up for 8 months. He said that is probably why the lifters are tapping slightly. That worries me but it sounds logical. If you wouldn’t mind please give me any info you have and if there is ever anything I can do for you regarding my business please let me know.
Thanks
Ben Lampo
In a response dated: 6/8/99
Good Morning Ben,
Thanks for the inquiry. I am forwarding your question to the 928 list so that a few really knowledgeable people can also look at your questions. 🙂
First, I would like to know more about the present Owner. Is he/she a mechanic? A Trained DIY? A Shadetree guy? Why is it up for sale? (A basic, but important question) Why did he not fix the master cylinder? (This can give you insight to the Sellers outlook about the car)
Why does he have heads laying around? Was the car ever raced? Is the engine original? The car sounds like an early 78, does it have the psycho plaid seats? Is the replacement interior from a 928 or are they aftermarket seats? Again has it been raced? I would check for signs of a roll cage on the floor behind the front seats. Does everything work? Has the car been upgraded for any systems?
I would take all the time you need to review the service records. Has the car been professionally serviced or has the Owner done all work, therefore how expert is the Owner? What has been serviced in the last 5 years? I do not believe the 180 mph speedo is original, therefore the mileage may also be suspect. Is their paperwork on this?
I would recommend having a shop do a pre-inspection. Allot can be done even with a bad master cylinder. I do not like the comment about a tapping sound. The tappets/lifters are self adjusting and should not make noise. Varnish and / or long periods of sitting could cause this but it also may be something more serious. Engine noise is expensive.
The car sounds like it is in average condition, it should be worth more if the original seats are intact. A bad master cylinder also means you can not check the clutch or the transmission. Clutches are $500.- and transmissions are $1000.- plus labor. A stick is worth much more than a 3spd auto. This needs to be factored into a Bid price.
I know that this will cause some discussion 🙂 An older 928 is worth about $3500 in scrap value. A good driver is worth more. A garage Queen even more. You need to determine if the car is worth more than scrap value due to all conditions to set a fair price. A good repaint in a non-928 color is not the end of the world, unless you need originality. The car sounds like an average condition car, pending on the powertrain inspection.
Sorry for all the questions instead of answers, but as you can see, buying a 928 properly is not always easy. After all it is a previously owned Porsche, not just a used car.
You should visit Phil Tong’s website, it has a chapter on buying a 928. http://www.928s4vr.com/ , besides you might win a T-Shirt!
Hope I helped you somewhat.
Ed B
’80 928 5spd
Schwarzmetallic
928 Owner’s Club
General – Buying II
In a question dated:Â 7/11/00
I am planning to buy a 928 S4, automatic or manual. I want to buy one that  doesn’t break very often and gives a reasonable service, if well maintained. (like, regular oil change, replace parts as necessary and so on.) What’s the reasonable mileage I should look for, so that the car is reasonably reliable? If I buy a well maintained car that has 75K or less miles on it, will that be a good buy or should I look for very low mileage? And, how difficult to get original parts and accessories for this car? I pretty much visited all the great 928 web sites on what to look for when buying a 928, but didn’t get any comforting feeling on what constitutes a good buy. In short, I don’t want to buy a 928 and spend rest of my life taking it for repairs.
In a response dated: 7/11/00
The 928 is a well-made, reliable car. The mechanical parts just don’t seem to wear out. It is nut unusual to hear of cars with 150 – 200,000 miles with little more than routine maintenance. If you can do virtually all of your own maintenance, it isn’t too expensive to maintain. If you have everything done at the dealer, it can be an astonishingly expensive car to own.
Most parts are still available for the 928, but Porsche discontinues a few more every month. We, along with the other 928 vendors, can get any part that Porsche supplies for the 928, as well as many aftermarket or  proprietary parts and accessories.
Most mechanical parts are priced comparably to those for a Lexus or a Mercedes. A few are very expensive. Soft trim prices tend to be very high.
The 928 does NOT make a good “fixer-upper”.
Some points to consider:
All 928s are used cars.
There are no guarantees in life, especially on used cars. A particular used car may look ratty, but be very reliable, while a beautiful, clean car of the same make and vintage may be a money pit. Appearance has only a loose relationship with reliability. A clean car is more often a well maintained car, but not always. Some owners wax their cars much, much more often than they change the oil.
Some things on a car fail because of mileage. Some things fail because of number of starts. Some things fail because of age. The timing belt on an immaculate 1987 S4 with 40,000 miles is ready to fail because of age, not mileage.
Cars deteriorate more quickly just sitting than they do if driven on a regular basis. A 1989 928 that was driven 30,000 miles up until 1992, and has sat undriven in a garage since then will need some serious maintenance to be a reliable car.
There are cycles of required maintenance on cars. Timing belts need to be replaced every 60,000 miles or every five to eight years. Steering racks often start leaking at 100 – 120,000 miles. Clutches may go out at 80 – 120,000 miles.
One of the most common problem areas on a 928 is the complex electrical system. This is almost unrelated to age or mileage.
One of the most important factors of all is the owner’s ability to take care of problems. An owner with a good knowledge of the electrical system and a good capability to diagnose problems might solve an intermittent electrical problem in a couple of days, where an owner who is not capable of this might have to have the car towed ten times before the problem gets fixed. Same problem, but the two owners will have VERY different ideas about the reliability of the 928.
So, how do you select a “good” 928?
Some of our listers want to buy from the most anal “Porsche Owner” that they can. They want to see a record of when the tire pressures were checked, and a car with poor service records is summarily rejected.
Some want the cheapest 928 on the market.
Some go by appearance, assuming that a well-maintained appearance means well-maintained mechanically.
Bottom line (my opinion): Buy the best looking, best maintained, latest 928 that you can afford – but put at least 10%, and perhaps as much as 20% of the price of the car into a maintenance fund.
I have posted a copy of this to RennList – I can assure you that you will hear a wide range of other opinions.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
General – Buying III
In a question dated: 11/2/00
I’m looking to purchase a 928. I have some questions and hope someone (plural) can help. I have been a 928 admirer for some time but have finally saved up the $ to make the plunge. I know very little about the car except that I like the body style, and HP under the hood. Questions:
1. Mileage. There seems to be a good number of 100,000+ mile cars out there on the market. The question is, how many miles is too many (i.e. if the odometer says XXX,XXX run away)? I’ve had dealers (not Porsche dealers) tell me that 200,000 or more miles is not uncommon? Is there a maximum life on the engine, chasis, etc.?
2. Lets talk body. I understand that there is a significant amount of aluminum in the 928 body. Briefly, what parts? I live in Wisconsin, and eventhough these cars cannot be driven in the winter, road salt is unavoidable. Is rust on these cars a problem? If so, where should I look for the Bond-0?
3. Let’s talk paint. Two questions: 1)Can the original Porsche colors be purchased for a new paint job? and 2)I had a dealer (non-Porsche) tell me that if the car doesn’t have original paint, the value decreases. Sounds strange to me but….?
4. I’m somewhat limited with free time and my mechanical skills are limited. So more than likely I’ll purchase something in good shape. However, it seems that there are a significant amount of 928’s out there that have been neglected and can be picked up cheap. Of course the project then begins but it might be fun. Any experience that someone can share with this approach?
5. Finally, any experience with working with a fee for service car finder?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mark
In a response dated: 11/2/00
1.) As I like to say, YMMV. There are several 300k+ mile 928s being driven. There is one with over 600k miles and another with over 400k miles. Take good care of a 928, and it should last a very long time.
2.) Aluminum will not rust, and the steel parts on a 928 are galvanized. In time, they will rust, but it will likely be a long time unless a panel gets damaged and the galvaniztion is breached. BTW, the front fenders, cabin doors, and hood are aluminum. All else is steel, glass, plastic or rubber.
3. ) Depends on the original paint. Most of the common colors can still be found, although they will now be water based. Value is a matter of personal taste. Some may like the new color, ehile others prefer originality.
4. The rule of thumb is, “Buy the best example and (usually) the youngest MYÂ you can afford.”
5. Brian Buxton iss in that business. He will likely post to this BB, and specifically to this message, once he sees it.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mark
~ Good luck, and merry motoring ~
In a response dated: 11/2/00
An addendum. Buy the best example you can afford and maintain. Expect first year maintenance and fixes to be at least 25% of purchase price, $1500-2000 / year after that particularly since you don’t do the work yourself.
Cheers
Steve