(with one or two piece crosspipe)

by Michael Kehr

I have just recently finished a complete clutch job on my 86' 951, which included replacing the throw out bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing, guide sleeve, and the two needle bearings on the release lever. I am posting my experiences so I may help others who are mechanically inclined but cannot afford the $ 1,400.00 + labor to do the job.

This procedure applies to all 944 series cars, with some exceptions.

Porsche sets the shop time @

23 hours ( single cross-pipe) @ $55.00 =$ 1265.00 ~

16 hours ( two part cross-pipe) @ $ 55.00=$ 880.00 ~

~ Approximate labor rate

I completed the entire job in 2 weeks working part time, which included replacing the right motor mount, cleaning underbody and transmission, undercoating, and eliminating all corrosion. Some steps will be frustrating if you have never done this kind of work on this type of car.  Take your time, keep organized, and most important have PATIENTS YOU'LL NEED IT!

I would like to thank fellow list member Mark Sundt for all his help and support throughout this job. His patience and insight are greatly appreciated. Also I would like to thank, Milo Dorr, Steve Timmons, Kevin Gross, Jim Selders and Doug Dyakar. Without the help of these people I would never have been able to do this job. Thanks to Stan and his informative Archives. The job should not be undertaken by those without some mechanical ability. It is not an extremely difficult job, but requires many steps especially if your car still has the single part cross pipe. Organization is important!

Safety is also VERY important, when working under a car supported by jack stands. Take time and care when raising the car with the hydraulic jack, utilizing the proper jack points. A good idea would be a secondary means of support, such as concrete blocks under the wheels. I am going to explain this procedure in detail in hopes that I can help other list members do this job. Reviewing and researching before you start is a good way to familiarize yourself with the car, and will make you more confident, resulting in a successful job. The clutch replacement on my 951' was the second time I have ever worked on a car, (other then basic maintenance of course) the first being the replacement of the front struts and strut bearings. I am going to list tools needed and where to find them. Part #'s will be given, along with chemicals needed, research material sources and torque specs. I will refer to the Haynes 944 manual, the 944 Workshop Manuals( 6 volumes) including the Turbo supplement and Mark Sundt"s notes, used with his permission. I have also included HINTS and NOTE sections to point out important areas.

I tried to make this information as accurate as possible. If there are other suggestions or hints that will make this account more complete feel free to add your comments to the list.  GOOD LUCK !

***** A NOTE ON TOOLS *****

Having the proper tools when working on a Porsche is very important!! Using good quality tools is also very important!! I have found out the hard way!! I was frustrated more times then I can remember while doing this job!! Now AFTER the job is complete I know what tools I should have used, and now you will know BEFORE you start. Of course not all tools listed are mandatory, the variety listed will make life easier.  I have found that most Craftsman tools are very poor in quality. The sockets and wrenches work ok, but the ratchets and mechanical tools are sub-standard in quality. I speak about the "newer" tools, I know that the older product is much better. Hazett and Heyco are the German tools used to assemble German cars, they are very good and are made to fit in some of those tight places. Snap On, Mac, Matco, S&K/Facom are good tools especially Snap On( great quality and big bucks ). There are very few "special" tools required to do this job. A somewhat complete list of tools and the resources for them will follow.

RATCHETS:

1/4" straight

1/4" flex head (Snap On)

3/8" straight

3/8" flex head (long handle) Clutch housing bolts (I used Craftsman)

1/2" straight

breaker bar (for that real stubborn rusted hardware)

UNIVERSALS:

1/4" 3/8" 1/2"

EXTENSIONS:

1/4" long medium short (aprox.) 3" 6" 12" 18"

3/8" long medium short

1/4" flexible (ie. Snap On)

3/8" flexible "" ""

SOCKETS:

1/4" Set W/ 13mm, 15mm semi-deep

1/4" universal sockets 10mm, 13mm, 15mm

1/4 Magnetic 10mm, 13mm

3/8" set W/10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm semi-deep

3/8" universal sockets 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm

1/2" 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm

ADAPTERS:

1/4"---3/8"

3/8"---1/2"

1/2"---3/8"

WRENCHES

Combination standard length: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm

Box long: 8mm, 10mm, 13/15mm, 17/19mm

Flarenut crowsfoot (Snap On): 13mm, 15mm

Torque Wrench flex head 3/8" (5-75 ft. lbs.)ie. (Snap On # QJFR275E)

DRIVERS:

3/8" Hex 6mm, 8mm,10mm,12mm (avoid the Craftsman, bits come out of sockets

because they are held in poorly. Get the kind that

are held in with a pin or set screw.(Hazett)

3/8" 12 Point 8mm (for cheesehead bolts, hold on pressure plate,

drive axles) DON'T CHEAP OUT ON THIS TOOL!! Buy

either the Hazett/Heyco or Snap On. @ $ 18.00 it is well

worth it! Snap On calls this tool "Triple Square" The

flywheel is secured with 12mm cheeseheads.

SPECIAL TOOLS:

Clutch alignment tool (source see below) @ $ 5.95

8mm * 150mm bolt ( for removing release lever shaft) (pilot bearing)

Vice Grips 10"

Hammer (not so special)

Magnetic Pick-up (for that hardware you thought you would never see again)

Rubber Mallet (Maybe needed for intake manifold removal)

Safety glasses or goggles

Creeper

MISC:

Various Screwdrivers straight blade , phillips #1, #2

Jackstands 3 ton (4 ea.) heavyduty (12" minimum 17" max. aprox.)

Hydraulic Jack 2 1/4 ton @ least (Min. height 5" inches, maximum height 18" @ least)

Blocks of wood & short 2 * 4's

NOTES:

* Odd Socket Sizes & wrenches 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm are used 95% of the time. I don't think I ever used any even sizes. Maybe 14mm on exhaust system?

* Flex Head Ratchets are very usefull , don't overlook these tools.

* Universals and flex sockets for those weird angles

* 12 point sockets and fine tooth ratchets are a great help in confined areas.

* Magnetic 1/4"socket 10mm and 13mm is very handy along with a flexible extension and or universal when working in the tight engine compartment spaces.

* I accomplished the work with much less, but this is what I recommend after completing the job. That is if you have the $$$.

TOOL SOURCES:

Zelenda Tool (distributor for Hazet & Heyco) (718) 896-2288

Snap On Direct (800) 525-8497

Matco Direct (800) 321-8227

Mac Direct ?

S&K/ Facom Direct (800) 822-5575

Griots Garage.......Distributes Facom, jack stands (800) 345-5789

Performance Products........sells selected Hazet & Heyco (800) 423-3173

Tweeks.......clutch alignment tool source, misc tools (800) 428-2200

Automotion...clutch alignment tool source, misc. tools (800) 777-8881

Imparts............Jackstands, Wright Tools (800) 325-9043

Northern..........hydraulic jacks, jack stands (800) 533-5545

Harbor Freight Tools...S&K tools, Hydraulic jacks, jack stands (800) 423-2567

CHEMICALS & GREASE:

Hi pressure grease MoS2 (ie..Porsche #000.043.024.00)

Penetrating Spray ( Wurth Rost Off or PB)

Anti-Seize Compound (ie. Wurth CU-1100)

Wurth HSS-2000 (Great spray grease)

Loctite #270 (for M8*25mm ground stud. (clutch bellhousing)

Wurth Green Bushing/Bearing fixing Agent (optional)

Gasket remover (ie. Wurth # 89091000)

CHEMICAL & GREASE SUPPLIERS (Hardware)

Wurth USA Direct 1 800 526-5228 New Jersey (OEM Hardware source)

Automotion

Tweeks

Performance Products

Stoddards 800 342-1414

Local stores (maybe Pep Boys)

REFERENCE MATERIAL:

944 Parts Fiche: ( not necessary but helps to identify parts , for .PSM 000.002 ordering, disassembly / assembly.)

Haynes 944 Manual: (Pep Boys sells these, good reference for $15.00)

#1027 chapter 7 "Manual Transaxle" pp.126-129

chapter 8 "Clutch and Drivetrain pp.134-140

Porsche 944 Workshop Manual: (Vol.#2 Transmission)

#WKD 481.821 USA 30-05/30-09 Torque specs (6 vol.) 30-5/30-17 Clutch

34-1/34-5 Transmission

Porsche 944 Turbo Supplement: 30-1/30-7, 30-05/30-09 Clutch 21-6, 24-4 Intake Manifold

Porschephiles archives: Dec 91, Mar.92 April, May 94

REFERENCE SUPPLIERS:

Workshop Manuals:

My Porsche (408) 899-5555 (Good Prices) $ 250.00 For All 7

Haynes Manual (local PEP BOYS or mail order) $ 15.00

Parts fiche:

Stoddards (800) 342-1414

A NOTE ON REFERENCE MATERIAL:

I would at least purchase the HAYNES MANUAL. I would suggest having access to a friends set of workshop manuals and parts fiche, if possible. Though you may not need much after you use these notes.

PARTS NEEDED:

Release bearing+ #951.116.082.01 ESP

clutch disc #951.116.011.15 ESP

Pressure plate+ #951.116.023.01 ESP

pilot bearing+ #931.102.111.00 @ $17.95

guide sleeve+ #016.141.181 @ $15.99

needle bearings+ (2 ea.) #999.201.213.00 @ $12.99 each

Cheesehead Bolts** (12 ea.) #999.510.012.02 @ $.85 each

All new exhaust sealing rings & hardware= (bolts, nuts, washers)

Intake manifold gaskets=(4ea.) # 944.110.163.05 (If manifold is removed)

Fuel Injector Seals (4 kits) #944.110.901.00 (If manifold is removed)

Sealing Ring #944.111.205.03 *** (Large) @ $22.10 (1ea.)

Sealing Ring #944.111.205.04 *** (medium) @ $17.42 (4ea.)

Sealing Ring #931.123.195.00 *** (Small) @ $7.84 (1ea.)

Sealing Band #951.123.134.02 *** @ $24.40 (1ea.)

ESP = Denotes EuroSelect part

** Replace any hardware that becomes damaged upon removal**

+ I replaced all of these parts because of the labor involved to access them.

*** Must replace exhaust sealing rings & gaskets if disassembled

PARTS SUPPLIER:

Stoddards 1 800 342-1414 Excellent stock/excellent service

Don McGill Porsche Clutch Parts (EuroSelect) @ $495.00 6/94 (800) 237-1698

I purchased the EuroSelect clutch parts, which are a Sachs Product. The clutch disc Had the (6) smaller springs in the center W/ the (4) larger on the outside. The Porsche part is identical. The only difference I could tell is that the Porsche part carries a (2) year warranty while the EuroSelect is (1) year. The Porsche part is almost double the price. Check out Excellence magazine for current prices & other vendors.

PROCEDURE:

FIRST IT NEEDS TO BE DETERMINED IF YOU HAVE A SINGLE OR 2 PART  CROSSOVER PIPE (the diagram is in the Turbo supplement (p. 30-3) All 86' 951's originally had the single part cross-pipe. Under warranty PCNA replaced the non-bellowed type headers when they cracked, with the improved accordian style. This was done for the first 5 years or 50K. The one part cross pipe was updated to the current two part type under "hidden" warranty with the headers.

The old style did not have a separate pipe going up to the waste gate. The clutch bell housing cannot be removed without this piece removed! Believe me I tried . So if you have the single cross pipe, it must be completely removed all the way up to the turbocharger. This involves removing the intake manifold, and lots more stuff in the engine compartment, in order to access the turbo exhaust bolts.

THIS CREATES A LOT MORE WORK!!!

Lets hope you have the new 2 section cross-pipe!

Jack up car & support with 2 jackstands

Remove aluminum engine protection shield

Determine which crosspipe you have (explanation above)

*** This may be a good time to determine if you would like to replace the headers and crosspipe with the new updated parts. It's not cheap! I elected not to do it at this time. I hope the headers don't crack!

If you have the single part pipe, lower the car and proceed as follows: * This part of the job is much easier while on the ground *

If you do have the two part jump up and down and proceed to the (+++).

NOTE: As parts are removed, label and store them in plastic parts bags. BE ORGANIZED!! BE ORGANIZED!!

HINT! Be careful when removing and installing hardware in and around engine compartment. There are many "black holes" where nuts and misc. items just disappear. I used a shop rag just under the working area to catch falling objects. A telescoping magnetic pick-up tool works great for hardware retrieval!

FUEL RAIL & INJECTORS:

* Place covers over fenders

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

* Remove battery ground (shield terminal from possible ground contact)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

CRUISE CONTROL CABLE:

* Disconnect cable on cruise control motor (If applicable)

A. remove retaining clip on cable

B. loosen and slide cable housing locking nut toward motor

C. pull end of cable housing through hole, slide cable through split in cable housing mount.

D. remove cruise control cable clamp ( on manifold ) * Pull off vacuum hoses on pressure regulator and pressure damper. ( inspect at same time) Replace if damaged.

 * Remove fuel Rail (be careful of plastic cap @ end)

* Remove distributor cap with spark plug wires (I left the cap on and just removed the spark plug ends wires only)

* Disconnect fuel connections to fuel rail: (2) (one is a clamp the other is a nut.) try to catch fuel that leaks out of the system. I covered exposed ends with plastic bags and wrapped with electrical tape.

DANGER! Be careful with fumes from fuel.  Work in a well ventilated area, and not around gas pilot lites!

* Fuel Injectors ( Carefully remove fuel rail from injectors starting at one end. More fuel will spill out of rail.

Next remove injectors one at a time from the intake manifold Set aside.

INTAKE MANIFOLD:

Hose clamps on many intercooler connections

Remove black aluminum intercooler tubes

Electrical connection to throttle body

Throttle and cruise control cables w/ clamp on

intake manifold.

Vacuum tube at throttle body (underneath)

13mm bolt @ front

10mm bolt @ dipstick

Remove dipstick shaft

2-5mm allen bolts @ oil filter

10mm bolt @ electrical harness in back

** If intake manifold will not come loose, tap with rubber mallet to free manifold from the gaskets. Cover intake ports. Turn manifold over so turbo-charger is visible.

* Guard for master cylinder (2-10 mm bolts/3 nuts) difficult to remove/sharp edges/will bend to facilitate removal. Good luck! It is easier to access bottom two nuts when car is lifted.

+++ +++ +++ +++

* Remove ground strap bolt @ top of Clutch bellhousing (if removal of this ground bolt poses a problem I would remove the heater valve that is in the way) Removal will require bleeding & topping off coolant system . A 1/4" 10mm universal with a long 1/4" extension worked for me . NOTE: This bolt has been replaced with a 8 * 25 mm stud w/ copper nut. I really don't know if this will make things easier or not?

* Remove speed & reference transmitters (2) 10mm flex socket

BG-B

DG-D w/special spacer

( replace bolts if damaged; turn side to side while pulling straight out.)

* Remove cable clamp holding starter cable @ upper attachment point (on bellhousing) 10mm bolt w/washer NOTE:(This attachment point may be more acessiable once central tube is disconnected from clutch housing.

** A NOTE ON JACKSTANDS** SAFETY IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

Use the heavy duty 3 ton stands with the lever (Imparts carries these @ $27.00 per pair.). Try to avoid the spot welded sheer pin type. The 6 ton jacks minimum height requires the use of smaller secondary stands, because it is very difficult to raise the car the 16" on the first lift. I would recommend the smaller 3 ton units with the lower minimum clearance( 12"). In order to raise it up with enough working clearance, it is safer to do this process in two stages, lifting one side at a time. An assistant spotting the opposite side is a great help.

A working height of 18" worked well for me, this gave me enough clearance to remove the transmission. The 6 ton units would be required to get the full 24" clearance, but not necessary Secure the stands at front and rear. I positioned the rear jacks under the rear axle cross member mount, and the front jacks at the front most jack points. Other positions may be used , depending on what jack stand pad configuration you have. For added stability , short 2*4's may be utilized between jack pad and liting point . Find secure points!!

* Raise car & support with jackstands

EXHAUST SYSTEM:

* Remove starter & slave cyclinder exhaust shields

* Wastegate to exhaust clamp

* Disconnect Oxygen sensor

* Emission check tube (top bracket is attached with upper clutch bellhousing bolt.

* Loosen (but cannot remove) wastegate bracket to torque tube (mark postion)

NOTE: Soak all bolts on exhaust system with Wurth Rost Off or equivalent prior to removal. A must for frozen hardware!

* Bolts at wastegate (4 nuts & washers @ studs, 4 bolts & washers @ threads)

* Bolts, washers, nuts at both exhaust manifolds (6)

* Bolts, nuts, washers at turbo(4) (top front is difficult to access; use 15mm crowfoot with short extension)

* Remove Cross-pipe

NOTE: Always label wires & connections as to where they go

* Remove starter (2 electrical connections) replace black rubber protective boot if damaged

* Remove wastegate with holder (bypass valve) from central tube 2 bolts (disconnect hose clamp ; inspect vacuum hose for damage)

* Remove starter harness clamp at lower attachment point (replace if missing mine was.

* Remove clamp for hose to slave cylinder (be careful not to damage hydraulic clutch line)

* Remove exhaust clamp @ side of catalytic converter & remove short wastegate pipe ( probably not necessary, but I did this)

* Remove nuts, washers (4) at turbo exhaust pipe

* Remove bolts, nuts, washers (6) on the three exhaust hangers, hold level & lower down., (be careful not to damage threaded studs on turbo exhaust pipe.) Withdraw entire exhaust system to rear.

* Remove catalytic and rear muffler exhaust shields

* Leave exhaust hangers on rubber mounts.

TRANSMISSION:

* Remove shift boot lever (retaining clip at top )(Be careful of plastic cosmetic items, remove ashtray, two screws, lift center piece slightly & push out leather boot from bottom.) set aside.

* Wedge clutch pedal down (need to do this so rear axles will turn with drive-shaft , thus positioning clamping sleeve for removal.)

* Remove large protective cover on transmission bellhousing, exposing clamping sleeve

* Postion driveshaft (turn rear wheels) and loosen clamping sleeve through opening 2 allen bolts (8mm hex with extension)

* Mark position of clamping sleeve, slide toward transmission (tap if stuck)

* Unwedge clutch pedal

* Remove transmission fluid ( A good time for this, but not necessary)

* Clean area around where drive axles connect to transmission (this will prevent contamination of CV-Joint grease.

* Disconnect driveshaft axles from transmission and suspend level with wire from shocks

* Cover drive axle ends and transmission flanges with small plastic bags and close (try to keep all CV-Joint grease intact & clean)

* Remove back-up light connection (2 wires) color coded, terminals not keyed.

* Remove speedo cable ( be careful of conector when disconecting)

* Remove speedo housing(threaded) set aside, cover hole on transmission.

* Push back rubber dust cover on shift rod @ end, cut wire and remove shift-rod bolt on selector linkage.

* Remove circlip from shift-lever

* Unbolt shift lever with bearing bracket from central tube ( pushing foam aside) use 10mm socket with extension (2 bolts), mark position of pivot flange on central tube, for reassembly.

* While pressing down on foam insulation turn shift rod over, and push selector rod foward in cavity about 300mm (12") This will move shift rod out of transmission protective tube. NOTE: Try not to damage insulation foam sheet!

* Move black protective tube for shift rod back toward rear of car. (not necessary) I tried to do this as described in the 944 Workshop Manual Vol.11 p.30-07 but was unsuccessful. The tube came out easily when I removed the transmission.

NOTE: According to the Workshop Manual if the retainers on the tube become damaged during this process, the tube should be replaced.

* Put wooden block between central tube and rear suspension cross member. (This keeps stress off the torque when transmission is removed, keeping torque tube level.

* Run in hydraulic jack under transmission and support NOTE: Center of gravity is more towards rear of transmission.. Have an assistant help with this procedure, it helps.

* Remove housing bolts (4) These bolts are not all the same length, make sure they are labeled. 

NOTE: I had trouble with the top driver's side allen bolt. I did'nt have enough clearance for a hex socket (10mm). I took the hex bit out of the socket and used a wrench on the bit. Not fun! Good luck!

* Remove transmission suspension mounting bolts at top of transmission.(2) (make sure jack is supporting trans. This will keep the suspension bolts from binding in shaft.

* With an assistant stabilizing transmission on jack cup lower transmission slowly down while clearing spare tire well. Readjust position on cup if necessary. Observe protective tube for damage and separation from housing.

NOTE: If your transmission is equipped with oil cooler treat it them with care, they damage easily. Once trans. is clear pull jack towards rear, while watching hanging axles for clearance.

* Remove Transverse axle strut between body and axle (4 bolts)

* Remove fuel filter hose clamp (Let fuel filter hang)

* Remove transmission carrier(4 bolts) NOTE: Check out Silent-Bloc Mount for damage and stress. Usually they last quite a long time. Replace if damaged. An expensive part.($ 150.00) Aprox.

* Remove clutch slave cylinder and hang out of way (2 bolts)

* Mark position of exhaust carriers on central tube, and slaken but don't remove.

CLUTCH:

* Put jack under oil pan with a piece of wood between jack cup and grilled oil pan.

NOTE: This is to prevent engine from settling to far at rear once bellhousing and central are removed.

* Unbolt 4 bolts from central tube to clutch bellhousing

* Slide central tube rearward with selector rod after rotating 90 degrees ( be careful not to damage brake lines when rotating central tube NOTE: Wear leather gloves when handling transaxle to avoid injuries. Note position of catch hooks. Exhaust clamps should be free to slide as needed.

* Remove temporary support block for central tube at rear of car

* Loosen release lever shaft retaining bolt.

* Thread 8mm * 150mm bolt into release lever shaft on clutch bellhousing; with Vice-Grips attached to end of bolt, tap Grips with hammer to remove shaft. NOTE: A shorter bolt can be used, but I needed the extra leverage to remove shaft. (REFER to Haynes Manual Chapter 8 p.136)

* Remove bellhousing bolts (4) total 2 @ top, 2 @ bottom NOTE: The bolts at the top are a little difficult to access. Use a long flex head ratchet (Use 17mm or 19mm ? 12 point socket.)

* Remove bellhousing with release lever.

* With 8 mm 12 point driver, remove 9 cheesehead bolts. Uniformly loosen bolts on pressure plate.

NOTE: Use a HIGH QUALITY 12 point tool! Make sure tool is seated properly in head, and that pressure is applied when turning out bolt, this may help from stripping out the head. ( the head of these cheeseheads are real easy to strip out!!)

* Remove pressure plate with release bearing and clutch Disc (Be careful the pressure plate is somewhat heavy.

* Remove starter ring from pressure plate ( I used a hammer and a block of wood. Spray with penetrating spray. Remove evenly as not to bend ring.

NOTE: The release bearing and pressure plate are packaged separately, therefore you must assemble these as one working part.

* Install release bearing on pressure plate ( have an assistant push down on pressure plate while you install retaining ring. 

NOTE: compare assembly of old unit.

* Install starter ring on new pressure plate ( align bolt holes and tap on evenly)

NOTE: This is a very precise fit make sure ring goes on even and bolt holes are exactly aligned.

PILOT BEARING:

The pilot bearing is a bearing that supports the rear of the crankshaft. As you can see it has taken a lot of work to get to this point, therefore it is a good idea that this part be replaced.

* Removal requires the use of a special hooked puller tool, but this method should work fine.

* Find a 8" bolt with a head that is slightly smaller then the bearing opening. Attach Vice-Grips to other end. Hook head on other side of bearing, and lightly tap on pliers with a hammer.

NOTE: A long bolt will give you more leverage. I had a little trouble with this. HINT: Tap out evenly. ( refer to Haynes Manual Chapter 8 p.140 )

* Remove bearing and clean out bore in the crankshaft recess

* Lightly oil sides of new pilot bearing and install (use a suitable size socket with extension and hammer NOTE: Make sure bearing is tapped in evenly!

GUIDE SLEEVE:

* Remove bolts(M 6) holding guide sleeve on clutch bellhousing ; replace with new part if damaged or worn ( torque=11 ft. lbs. / 15Nm )

NEEDLE BEARINGS:

NOTE: Spray the needle bearing bore area with a penetrating spray to aid in removal.

* Punch out old needle bearings ( 2 ) with proper size socket and extension.

NOTE: These were tough, I used a block of wood under the lever, with the extension going through the opposite needle bearing shaft. I would have used a vice , but did not have one at the time.

* Oil sides of bearings and install, and make sure they punch in level. A very tight fit.\

FLYWHEEL INSPECTION:

* Check flywheel for wear and scoring (Heat checking). If imperfections are slight, a machine shop can machine the surface to spec.

CLUTCH INSTALLATION

* Make sure all clutch surface areas are free of grease and oil. It is important that friction surfaces are perfectly clean.

* Apply a thin coat of MoS2 grease to guide sleeve, splines of central shaft, and grooved ballbearing/flywheel area.

* Lubricate release lever fork(needle sleeves, ball socket, and fork.

NOTE: Solid white lubricating paste # AOS 126 0006 is no longer used, because it hardens with age, replace with MoS2.

* Use clutch alignment tool to center clutch plate to pressure plate

NOTE: Make sure tool is inserted all the way into pilot bearing.

* Apply a small amount of anti-seize to threads of cheesehead bolts, and start by hand to assure that the threads won't be stripped. Tighten uniformly in a diagonally opposite sequence ( 18 ft. lbs. /25Nm ).

NOTE: Make sure you have a good leverage and that the tool is in level, these bolt heads are real shallow. Turn flywheel to access bolts at bottom for best results. (takes some effort)

* Install the release lever and clutch housing together on the engine release bearing, with cup on release lever facing slave cylinder opening. Two forks at end will fit under release bearing edge. Hold lever through slave cylinder opening while aligning.( you will understand this better when you do it ).

NOTE: Make sure that the bonded bolt on the flywheel is facing down. This will prevent damage to the reference transmitters.

* Tighten clutch housing bolts M 12 (4) two different lengths! torque= (54ft. lbs. /75 Nm )

NOTE: Hand tighten these blots (this is important especially when threading into an alloy material. Starting this bolts with a socket will increase the chance of cross threading ( Use anti-seize on threads )

* Move release lever so that needle sleeves are aligned with bore in clutch housing.

* Slide in release lever shaft so that milled face is toward securing bolt. Slide in all the way ( it helps to lubricate shaft). You may need to move release lever back and forth for proper alignment. Never force! Install securing bolt with back up hex nut when shaft is correctly positioned. torque= 7 ft. lbs. / 9.5 Nm )

* Install rubber seal on clutch inspection hole , if missing.

HINT : Apply a small amount of silicone to plug sides, and you won't have to replace it again.

**** The sequence for assembly of central tube, transmission, exhaust system, etc... is the reverse of removal, with some notes below. ****

* Slide by-pass valve bracket on central tube to marked position and tighten

* Position by-pass valve (wastegate) between clutch housing and body.

* Uniformly tighten M 6 bolts connecting bypass line/ exhaust cross-pipe, torque to spec. torque= 7ft. lbs /10 Nm ( sorry this is a bit vague)

NOTE: Always use new seal rings ( packing rings) on exhaust system! 

* When all axhaust system bolts have been inserted, tighten the flange connection between the turbo charger and exhaust system first.

NOTE: torque specs. exhaust bolts( Pay attention to different size bolts!!)

M 8 bolts 14 + 1.4 ft. lbs. /20 + 2 Nm

M 10 bolts 29 + 3.6 ft. lbs. /40 + 5 Nm

* Run car and check exhaust system for leaks.

* Once exhaust system has cooled down, retighten all bolts and nuts to specified torque ( see above)

NOTE: It is very important to retighten the flange connection between the by-pass line and exhaust cross-pipe. Refer to Workshop Manual "Turbo supplement" p. 30-7 # 6.

NOTE: When installing heat shields and guards, make sure they are solid and free from vibration. ( ie. center catalytic converter shield )

NOTE: If insulation sheet foam was damaged when shift rod was moved, replace or repair if possible.

INTAKE MANIFOLD :

* Assembly is reverse of disassembly, with some notes provided below.

* Install master cylinder guard with car still on stands ( this way it will be easier to access bottom 2 nuts.

* NOTE: There is an electrical harness that runs along the front edge of this guard. Make sure that the guard is not binding on this cable bundle, this will make alignment almost impossible. I slid the turbo pump bracket for more clearance. You can also loosen turbo pump on bracket, but be careful not to stress the bottom water pump hoses. This can cause the motor shaft to bind resulting in a inoperative pump. This happened to me. I was about to order a new unit, but the P-files. All I did was loosen the clamp on the bracket and moved the pump down, It worked ! Thanks Jim

** This pump has been updated to a more robust design, and I imagine this problem was resolved.

* Make sure that that the ( 4 ) intake manifold gaskets are replaced if the manifold is removed.

* NOTE: I would recommend using a gasket removing solvent to remove gaskets. (ie. Wurth Gasket remover # 89091000 ) I wish I had used this !

* When installing intercooler lines and tubes, connect all lines first then tighten clamps. ( make sure clamp below throttle housing does not obstruct the movement of the throttle cam.

* Check out your air filter, replace if needed.

* Inspect all fuel injector seals and O-rings. Replace if cracked or damaged.

NOTE: Inspect the seal around the injector needles for hairline cracks.

* Make sure all spark plug wires are routed and laced properly, and inspect condition.

TORQUE SPECS: ( Not previously mentioned )

CLUTCH:

Reference mark and speed sensors= 6 ft. lbs. / 8 Nm

Slave cylinder to clutch housing= 15 ft. lbs. / 21 Nm

Central tube flange to clutch housing= 30 ft. lbs. / 42 Nm

Starter to clutch housing= ?

TRANSMISSION:

Transmission carrier to body= 34 ft. lbs. / 46 Nm

Bracket to transmission= 17 ft. lbs. / 23 Nm

Drive shaft to transmission input shaft= 58 ft. lbs. / 80 Nm (guide sleeve)

Shift rod to transmission= 15 ft. lbs. / 21 Nm

Shift lever plate to central tube= 15 ft. lbs. / 21 Nm

Drive axles to transmission= 30 ft. lbs. / 41 Nm

Speedometer socket to transmission= 30 ft. lbs. / 42 Nm

ENGINE:

Intake manifold to engine= 14 ft. lbs. / 20 Nm

DME: Oxygen Sensor= 36-43 ft. lbs. / 50-60 Nm

ALL OTHER BOLTS:

M 6 = (6 + 1.4 ft, lbs.) 8 + 2 Nm

M 8 = (14 + 1.4 ft. lbs.) 20 + 2 Nm

M 10 = (29 + 3.6 ft. lbs.) 40 + 5 Nm